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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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^MILO M. TURNER'S^ 

-^IMPROYED^ 

TAIIjOB BTBTEH, 



BY 



MRS. N, J. TURNER'S FORM-WROUGHT PATTERNS, 



FOR DRAFTING^ 



La^i^i^ Ifyifiiii ^^®M^im"iffite|M^ % 



C-nI£ 



.BOOKS I. ^L-ISTID II. 



SIMPLICITY, SPEED, PERFECTNESS. 



We guarantee this system free from all defects which make trying 

on and refitting a necessity. 
We guarantee that the drafting is done in less time than required to 

cut from a cut paper pattern. 

We guarantee there is no risk or difficulty in learning its use from 

the printed directions. 






Copyrighted 1884. by Milo M. Turner. 

Copyrighted 1887. by Milo M. Turner. 

Copyrighted 1889, by Milo M. Turner. 

All Rights Reserved. 



AGENTS WANTED, SEND FOR PRICE LIST. 



ADDRESS: 



ttS!$ Ms IlIM!! &JU&, Gincimuiti, §. 



%^> 



w / 



^MILO M. TURNER'S^ 

-^IMPROYED^- 

TAIIjOB STSTESM, 

BY 

MRS. N. J. TURNERS FORM-WROUGHT PATTERNS, 

FOR DRAFTING 



<r-£ BOOKS I. -A.:NX) II- ^ 



SIMPLICITY, SPEED, PERFECTNESS. 



We guarantee this system free from all defects which make trying 

on and refitting a necessity. 
We guarantee that the drafting is done in less time than required to 

cut from a cut paper pattern. 

We guarantee there is no risk or difficulty in learning its use from 

the printed directions. 

Copyrighted 1884, by Milo M. Turner/^ 
Copyrighted 1887, by Milo M. Turner 7 . ° ?°, 
Copyrighted 1889, by Milo M. Turner. 
All Eights Reserved. 



AGENTS WANTED. SEND FOR PRICE LIST. 

ADDRESS: 

*#^1889,^# 






f 



■A 



,111s S3 T stem was put up by the well-known American Amateur of 
Dress Cutting, Milo M. Turner, L.L.B., who devoted a lifetime 
to the study of this science, caring less for the profits of his invest- 
ments than for the perfection of his works. In a discussion upon 
the relative merits of the different s} T stems he said, "No form of 
s} T stem is an}' assurance or disproof of correctness. S3 r stems by 
square rule as often draft from division measurement upon the model 
principle as systems of any other form. The manner of drafting by 
system in any other than pattern form is necessarily laborious, vex- 
atious and complicated. In the hands of the average dressmaker^ 
unskilled in mathematical calculations and the art of delineating, 
gives a slouch Jit." 

Ladies receiving personal instruction in the use of this 
system very often neglect to study the instruction book. This 
is as wrong as an3 T thing can be. Personal instruction is sometimes 
incorrect, often misunderstood or forgotten, and always incomplete. 
You can know the full worth of this system only b} T reading every 
word, applying every direction strictly, patiently and repeated^, 
Two ideas prevail, The first idea is that no system will draft per- 
fectly. Ladies who think this never used this system or any system 
that was correct, therefore they think there is no system that is 
correct. The second idea is that all systems are about alike and will 
fit perfectly. Ladies who think this have heard other systems talked 
up by imposters, and never used any system but this, and since this 
system fits perfectly, they are quick to believe other systems will fit 
perfectly. Hence, it is difficult for me to effect sales without 
first cutting a trial garment free of charge for all who work at the 
business where my system is not known; while the imposter, with a 
worthless imitation, who offers his system for less than my prices, can 
sell to those who are using my system by telling a lie and sticking to 
it until he gets your money. I tell you, ladies, you lose your money 
every time you invest it in any other system in pattern form besides 
Milo M. Turner's Improved Tailor System. All who buy other sys- 
tems tell me so in their letters which I receive by the thousands. 
All ladies who understand drafting bj this system here and now have 



my permission to purchase of me at my lowest wholesale rates and 
sell and teach this system to whom they please. I could not afford 
to sell you this system and teach you for one cent less than twenty 
dollars, simply for your own use, except I anticipated future orders. 
All good people who enjoy a rich boon will open both hands to take 
and sell the same to a needy world. You will find it the most profit- 
able work you ever engaged in. The profits from the sale of this 
system now exceed the annuity paid upon the United States bonds 
for the amount of one million of dollars. These profits are the just 
reward of unequaled merit in a dress system. Please accept my 
thanks for your liberal patronage during the last quarter of a century. 
Send for price list to agents. All orders for systems and all letters 
of enquiry promptly answered. Direct to 

MILO M. TURNER, LL.B., 

Cincinnati, Ohio. 
Or to MILO M. TURNER, LL.B., 

Niles, Berrien County, Mich. 



BOOK * 1 



LESSON I. 



DESCRIPTION OF FORM-WROUGHT PATTERNS, 

NOS. 1, 2 AND 3. 

Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 drafts back and sidebody: No. 2 
drafts the front; No. 3 the sleeve. 

Form- Wrought Patterns Nos. 1 and 2 have each six sides, viz. : 

Center (long straight side). 

Base (short straight side). 

Side or Dart Rule (from base to arm). 

Arm (from side or dart rule to shoulder). 

Shoulder (from arm to neck). 

Neck (from shoulder to center). 

Form-Wrought pattern No. 3 has four sides, viz. : 

Outside (long curved side). 

Inside (curved side opposite). 

Head (short curved side). 

Hand (straight side). 

Find the name of each side where printed upon the Form- 
Wrought Patterns. 

The sides of the Form- Wrought Patterns are used as rules to 
draw the outlines of a pattern. 

Form- Wrought Pattern No.l contains ten rows of figures; No. 
2 contains sixteen rows of figures, and No. 3 contains nine rows of 
figures. 

Each row of figures is called a scale. 

Each scale is named by the letter or word at its side. 

Find A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H scales, also shoulder and center 
scales, on Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1. 

Find A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, shoulder and 
center scales, on Form-Wrought Pattern No. 2. 

Find A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H and I scales on Form- Wrought 
Pattern No. 3. 

Each scale represents some measurement. 

Find diagrams Nos, 1, 2 and 4 on Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1; 
diagram No. 3 on Form- Wrought Pattern No. 2; diagrams Nos. 5- 
and 6 on Form- Wrought Pattern No 3. 



Agents are Requested 

To take the correct measurements of each purchaser or scholar and 
write them o^ the inside of cover to the Instruction Book. Then 
draft back, sidebody, front and sleeve from these measurements, and 
number each line and letter each dot the same as in the diagrams, 
and leave this drafting with the purchaser. No system will be left 
with any one without receiving the first payment. No trial basque 
will be tried on over 3^our dress. 

Scholars are Requested 

To study carefully each lesson in the order given. Ladies having 
used other sj'stems can commence with Lesson IX. When learning 
to draft read each direction separately. Do what it directs and 
nothing more; then read the next direction. As you proceed, letter 
each dot and number each line same as in the diagrams. No per- 
sonal instruction is half as good as the simple printed directions 
which accompany each system free of charge, which I prefer Xo have 
you study rather than be taught. 



LESSOR II; 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 
Three Waist Measurements. 

Direction 1. Chest circumference is a close measurement 
around the chest close under the arms above the bust. 

2. Waist circumference is a tight measurement around the 
bottom of the waist under the belt. 

3. Dart measure is the difference of the chest • and waist cir- 
cumference. Thus, if the chest circumference is 32 inches and the 
waist circumference is 23, the difference or dart measure is 9; then 9 
is the number used for marking the darts. 

Remark 1. The size at the waist is not increased or decreased 
by the use of a greater or less dart measure than the difference of 
chest and waist circumference. Hence, any number may be used for 
marking the darts that judgment, experience or fashion ma} T require, 
whether more or less than the difference of chest and waist circum- 
ference. 

Principle 1 . A large bust requires a large dart or more curvature 
of line 1. A small bust requires a small dart or less curvature of 
line 1. 

Principle 2. The greater the dart measure the larger the dart; 
the less the dart measure the smaller the dart. 

Principle 3. The larger the dart measure the greater the width of 
the front skirt; the less the dart measure i the less the width of, the 
front skirt. , -. 



From the above principles we deduce the following: 

Special Directions No. 1. For a full stomach, large waist and hips, 
take one-third the waist circumference for dart measure. Thus, if 
the waist circumference is 30, take one-third of 30, which is 10, for 
dart measure. 

Special Direction No. 2. For a large, rounding bust, narrow back, 
small waist and hips, take one-third the waist circumference for dart 
measure, and increase the width across the bust by a greater curva- 
ture of line 1. 

Special Direction No. 3. Four, five or six are the dart measures 
used for children. 

4. Waist length is the measurement from under the back of the 
arm over a correct side seam to the bottom of the waist. 

Sleeve Measurements. 

Remark 2. The arm is held in nearlv a horizontal position, half 
bent, when taking the measurement for length of sleeve. 

5. Arm size is the circumference of the arm at the sleeve-head or 
fall of shoulder. 

Remark 3. This measurement is taken very tight, Will not 
often exceed 13 inches when the chest circumference is 33 inches. 

6. Hand size is a close measurement around the hand, over the 
knuckles, with fingers straightened; for a medium size is 7 inches. 

Remark 4. If the size of the hand is unusually large, drop one 
number from the hand measure, and leave the outside seam open at 
the hand three or four inches. 

7. Upper arm is the length from the top of form-seam on the 
outside of arm to elbow: medium length is 12 inches. 

8. Lower arm is the length from elbow on outside of arm to 
hand; medium length is 8 inches. 

Skirt Measurements. 

9. Back length is from the bottom of waist, at the center of back, 
down the length jou desire the skirt. 

10. Side length is from the bottom of waist at the side-seam, 
down the length desired. 

11. Front length is from the bottom of the waist at the center, 
down the length you desire the skirt in front. 

12. Hip measure is the circumference of skirt five inches below 
the waist. 

Remark 5. Divide this measurement at the side seam and apply 
five inches below the waist, adding from 4 to 6 inches for fullness. 



LESSOH III 



CLOSE-FITTING BACK. DIAGRAM NO. 1. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 
1 to find the scales and rules, to diagram No. 1 to find the dots and 
lines. 

A scale is waist length; is used only to give the length of line 1. 

B scale is waist length ; is used only to make dot A, diagram 
No. 1. 

F, 0, R and M, on Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1, describe the 
form; are used only to make the dots not lettered on line 9. 

C scale is chest circumference; is used onty to make dot B. 

D scale is chest circumference ; is used only to make dot C. 

E scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot D. 

Center is used to draw line 1. 

Base is used to draw line 2. 

Arm is used to draw line 3. 

Neck is used to draw line 4. 

Shoulder is used to draw line 5. 

DIRECTIONS. 

13. Place the center of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 one inch 
from the edge of goods or paper. 

14. Draw line 1 from neck to waist length, A scale. Number 
this line 1. 

1 5. Make dot A at the waist length, B scale. Letter this dot A. 

16. Dot the letters F, 0, R and M to make line 9. 

17. Make dot B at the chest circumference, C scale. Letter 
this dot B. 

18. Make dot C at the chest circumference, D scale. Letter this 
dotC. 

19. Make dot D at the chest circumference, E scale. Letter this 
dotD. 

20. With center on line 1, base to dot A, draw line 2 from line 
1 to dot A. Number this line 2. 

21. With arm to dots B and C, draw line 3 from dot B to dot C. 
Number this line 3. 

22. With center on line 1, neck to dot D, draw line 4 from line 1 
to dot D. Number this line 4. 

23. With shoulder to dots C and D draw line 5 from dot C to dot 
D. Number this line 5. (Neck and shoulder corner is placed to 
dot D.) 

24. With dart rule join the dots made at F, 0, R and M with a 
line, then join this line with dots A and B. Number this line 9. 

□ Def. The junction of lines is the point where the lines meet. 

25. With center to dot A and to junction of lines 1 and 4, draw 



9 

line 6 from junction of lines 1 and 4 through dot A to length for 
skirt. Number this line 6. 

26. Make dot E on line 6 six inches from dot A. Letter this 
dot E. 

27. With center to dot E and to junction of lines 1 and 2, draw 
line 7 from dot E to back measure for skirt. Number this line 7. 

28. Draw line 8 from lower end of line 6 to lower end of line 7. 
Number this line 8. 

29. Trace lines 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9, and sew in the lines traced. 

30. Cut out, allowing only for center, shoulder and form seams. 
Remark 6. The bottom width of skirt at any length for Basque, 

Polonaise, Princess Dress, Wrapper, or other garment, is found by 
extending lines 6 and 7 any length you desire the skirt. 

OPEN-BACK DRESSES. 

31. Turn down one and a half inches for hem, and place the 
center of Form-Wrought Pattern No. 1 one-half inch from the edge 
of the fold to allow for lap, then draft as before. 



LESSOH IV. 



CLOSE-FITTING SIDEBODY. DIAGRAM NO. 2. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern Na~ 
1, to find the scales and rules, to diagram No. 2 to find the dots and 
lines. 

B scale is waist length; is used only to make dot A, diagram No. 2. 

F, 0, R and M, on Form- Wrought Pattern No 1 describe the 
form, are used only to make the dots not lettered on line 7. 

C scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot B. 

F scale is chest circumference; is used onty to make dot C. 

G scale is waist circumference. H scale is waist lengh; are used 
only to make dot D. 

Base is used to draw line 1. 

Dart Rule is used to draw line 2. 

Arm is used to draw line 3. 

DIRECTIONS. 

32. Make dot A at the waist length, B scale. Letter this dot A. 

33. Dot the letters F, 0, R and M to make line 7. 

34. Make dot B at the chest circumference, C scale. Letter this 
dot B. 

35. Make dot C at the chest circumference, F scale. Letter this 
dotC. 

36. Find the waist circumference, G scale, and find the waist 
length, H scale, and trace the straight lines running from those 



10 

measurements to the hole where the lines meet, and make dot D in 
this hole. Letter this dot D. 

37. With base to dots D and A, draw line 1 from dot D to dot A. 
Number this line 1. 

38. With dart rule to dots C and D, draw line 2 from dot C to 
dot D. Number "this line 2. 

39. With arm to dots C and B, draw line 3 from dot G to dot B. 
Number this line 3. 

40. With dart rule join the dots made at F, 0, B and M with a 
line, then join this line with dots A and B. Number this line 7. 

,41. With center to dots A and B, draw line 4 from dot B through 
dot A the same length below line 1 as the length of line 6, diagram 
No. 1. Number this line 4. 

42. Make dot E on line 4, five inches from dot A. Letter this 
dot E. 

43. With center to dots E and D, draw line 5 from dot E below 
line 1 to side-measure for skirt. Number this line 5. 

44. Draw line 6 from lower end of line 4 to lower end of line 5. 
Number this line 6. 

45. Trace lines 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7, and sew in the lines traced. 

46. Cut out, allowing only for side and form seams. 

Remark 7. The bottom width of skirt at any length for Basque, 
Polonaise, Princes Dress, Wrapper, or any other garment, is found 
by extending line 5 to side measure for skirt, line 4 the same length 
below line 1 as the length of line G, diagram No. 1. 



LESSOH V. 



CLOSE-FITTING FRONT. DIAGRAM NO. 3. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 
% to find the scales and rules; to diagram No. 3 to find the dots and 
lines. 

A scale is chest circumference ; is used only to make dot A. 

B scale is chest circumference ; is used only to make dot B. 

C scale is waist length ; is used only to give the length of line 1. 

D scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot C. 

E scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot D. 

F scale is chest circumference ; is used only to make dot E. 

G scale is chest circumference ; is used only to make dot F. 

H scale is dart measure, (or difference of the chest and waist cir- 
cumference); is used only to make dot G. 

I scale is dart measure ; is used only to make dot H. 

One star (*) is used only to make dot I. 

J scale is dart measure ; is used only to make clot J. 

Two stars (**) are used only to move to dot J before making dot K. 



11 

Three stars (***) are used only to make dot K. 

K scale is dart measure ; is used only to make dot L. 

Four stars (****) are used only to move to dot L before making 
dot M. 

L scale is waist circumference ; is used only to make dot M. 

M scale is waist circumference. N scale is waist length ; are 
used only to make dot N. 

Center is used to draw line 1. 

Base is used to draw line 2. 

Side is used to draw line 8. 

Arm is used to draw line 9, placing to dot D for an unusual 
size. 

Shoulder is used to draw line 10. 

Neck is used to draw line 11. 

Dart rule or center of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1, is used to 
draw line 7.. 

Dart rule or center of Form-Wrought Pattern No. 1 is used to 
draw line 14. 

Center of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 is used to draw lines 13, 
18, 17, 15, 16. 

Dart rule on Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 is used to draw lines 3, 
4, 5 and 6, on the waist and center is used to extend those lines 
below the waist on the skirt. 

DIRECTIONS. 

47. Place the center of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 2 one and a 
half iuches from the edge of goods to allow for hem. 

48. Draw line 1 from neck to waist length, C scale. Number 
this line 1. 

i 49. Make dot A at the chest circumference, A scale, on line 1. 
Letter this dot A. 

50. Make dot B at the chest circumference, B scale. Letter this 
dot B. 

51. Make dot C at the chest circumference, D scale. Letter this 
dot C. 

52. Make clot D at the chest circumference, E scale. Letter this 
dot D. 

53. Make dot E at the chest circumference, F scale. Letter this 
dot E. 

54. Make dot F at the chest circumference, G scale. Letter this 
dot F. 

55. Make dot G- at the dart measure, H scale. Letter this dot G-. 

56. Make dot H at the dart measure, I soale. Letter this dot H. 

57. Make dot I at one star (*) close to the edge of chart. Let- 
ter this dot I. 

58. Make dot J at the dart measure, J scale. Letter this dot J. 
. ., : 59. Move the chart, placing two stars (**) to dot J. 



V2 

60. Make dot K at three stars (***) close to the edge of chart. 
Letter this dot K. 

61. Make dot L at the dart measure, K scale. Letter this dot L. 

62. Move the chart, placing four stars (****) to dot L, keeping 
base close to dots I, J, K and L. 

63. Make dot M at the waist circumference, L. scale. Letter 
this dot M. 

64. Find the waist circumference, M scale, and find the waist 
length, N scale, and trace the straight lines running from those 
measurements to the hole where the lines meet, and make dot N in 
this hole. Letter this dot N. 

65. With base to dot N, center on line 1, draw line 2 from line 1 
to four stars (****) or the width of darts. Number this line 2. 

66. With dart rule to dots Gr and L, draw line 3 from dot Gr to 
line 2. Number this line 3. 

67. With dart rule to dots H and J, draw line 4 from dot H to 
line 2. Number this line 4. 

68. With dart rule, print side down to dots H and I, draw line 5 
from dot H to line 2. Number this line 5. 

69. With dart rule, print side down to dots Gr and K, draw line 
6 from dot Gr to line 2. Number this line 6. 

70. With dart rule draw line 7 from dot N to junction of lines 2 
and 3, (H corner to dot N). Number this line 7. 

71. With side-rule to dots E and N, draw line 8 from dot E to 
dot N. Number this line 8. 

72. With arm to dots C, D and E draw' line 9 from dot C through 
dot D to dot E. Number this line 9. 

Remark 8. If the arm rule will not touch all three dots, C, D and 
E, at the same time, then place to dot D, and draw line 9 from 
dot D to dot E, then keeping to dot D, draw line 9 from dot D to 
dot C. 

73. With shoulder rule to dots B and C draw line 10 from dot 
B to dot C. Number this line 10. 

74. With neck rule to dots A and B draw line 11 from dot A to 
dot B. Number this line 11. 

75. With center rule of back to dots F and M, draw line 12 from 
line 9 through dots F and M to length of skirt for a Basque; five 
inches below line 7 for Polonaise. &c. 

76. Make dot O on line 9, one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot 0. 

77. Make dot P on line 9, one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot P. 

78. Make dot Q en line 7, one inch from line 12. Letter this 
dot Q. 

79. Make dot R on line 7, one inch from line 12. Letter this 
dot R. 

80. Draw line 13 from dot to dot Q, then draw line 13 from 



13 

clot Q to one-half inch from lower end of line 12. Number this line 
13. 

81. Draw line 14 from dot P to dot R, then draw line 14 from 
dot R to lower end of line 12, curving line 14 below line 7 towards 
line 12 with dart rule. Number this line 14. 

82. Make dot S on line 2, same distance from line 4 as from line 
5. Letter this dot S. 

83. Make dot T on line 2, same distance from line 3 as from 
line 6. Letter this dot T. 

84. With center rule to dots H and S, draw line 15 from dot H 
below dot S the number of inches used for marking the darts. Num- 
ber this line 15. 

85. With center rule to dots G and T, draw line 16 from dot G 
below dot T, the length of line 15. Number this line 16. 

86. Extend line 5 from junction of lines 2 and 5 to lower end of 
line 15. 

87. Extend line 4 from junction of lines 2 and 4 to lower end of 
line 15. 

88. Extend line 6 from junction of lines 2 and 6 to lower end of 
line 16. 

89. Extend line 3 from junction of lines 2 and 3 to lower end of 
line 16. 

90. Extend line 1 from line 2 to front measure for skirt. 

91. With center rule of back to dots C and N, draw line 17 below 
dot N to side measure for skirt. Number this line 17. 

Remark 9. Produce the curve over hip with arm-size of back. 

92. Draw line 18 from lower end of line 17 to lower end of line 
1 in shape to suit the style. Number this line 18. 

93. Trace lines 1, 2, 7, 8, 10, 13, 14, 3, 6, 4, 5. 

94. Cut out, allowing only for hem, side and shoulder seams. 
Remark 10. The bottom width of skirt at any length for Basque, 

Polonaise, Princess Dress, Wrapper, or other garment, is found by 
extending line 17 from dot C through dot N to side measure for 
skirt. 

OPEN-BACK DRESSES. 

95. Place the center line for children on fold of goods, if no seam 
is desired, one-half inch from fold to allow for seam, and draft same 
as before. 



LESSOH YI. 



FRENCH WAIST. 
CLOSE-FITTING SOLID BACK. DIAGRAM NO. 4. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 



16 

Thus if the dart measure is 9 add three and dot at 12, K. scale. 

120. Move the chart, placing four stars (****) to dot J, keeping 
base close to dot I. 

121. Make dot M at the waist circumference, L scale. Letter 
this dot M. 

122. Find the waist circumference, M scale, and find the waist 
length, N scale, and trace the straight lines running from those 
measurements to the hole where the lines meet, and make dot N in 
this hole. Letter this dot N. 

123. Make dot S same distance from dot I as from dot J. Let- 
ter this dot S. 

124. Place the center line of front dart to dot S, keeping base 
close to dots I and J. 

125. Make dot H always at 9, I scale. Letter this dot H. 

126. With base to dot N, center on line 1, draw line 2 from 
line I to four stars (****). Number this line 2. 

127. With dart rule to dots H and J, draw line 4 from dot H to 
line 2. Number this line 4. 

128. With dart rule print side down to dots H and I, draw line 
5 from dot H to line 2. Number this line 5. 

129. With dart rule, H corner to dot N, draw line 7 from dot N to 
junction of lines 2 and 4. Number this line 7. 

Remark 13. For some forms line 7 is a straight line; for some 
curved up or down. 

130. With side .rule to dots E and N, draw line 8 from dot N to 
dot E. Number this line 8. 

131. With arm to dots C, D and E, draw line 9 from dot C through 
dot D to dot E. Number this line 9. 

Remark. 14. If the arm rule cannot be made to touch all three 
dots at the same time, C, D and E, then place to dot D and draw 
line 9 from dot D to dot E, then draw line 9 from dot D to dot C, 
keeping to dot D. 

132. With shoulder rule to dots B and C, draw line 10 from dot 
C to dot B. Number this line 10. 

1-33. With neck rule to dots A and B, draw line 11 from dot A 
to dot B. Number this line 11. 

134. With center rule of back to dots F and M, draw line 12 from 
line 9 through dots F and M to length of skirt for a basque; five 
inches below line 7 for Polonaise, etc. Number this line 12. 

135. Make dot on line 9 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot 0. 

136. Make dot P on line 9 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot P. 

137. Make dot Q on line 7 one inch from line 12. Letter this dot 

<j. 

138. Make dot R on line 7 one inch from line 12. Letter this dot 
R. 

139. Draw line 13 from dot to dot Q, then from dot Q to one- 



17 

half inch from lower end of line 12, with center rule of back. Num- 
ber this line 13. 

140. Draw line 14 from dot P to dot R, then draw line 14 from 
dot R to lower end of line 12. Number this line 14. 

141. With center to dots H and S, draw line 15 from dot H through 
dot S to bottom of skirt for a basque. Number this line 15. 

142. Extend lines 4 and 5 below line 2 to bottom of skirt for 
basque: seven or eight inches for Polonaise or other garment. 

143. Extend line 1 from line 2 to front measure for skirt. 

144. Trace lines 1, 2, 7, 8, 10, 13, 14, 4, 5. 

145. Cut out, allowing only for hem, side and shoulder seams. 
Remark 15. The bottom width of skirt at any length for Basque, 

Polonaise, Princess Dress, Wrapper, or an}^ other garment, is found 
b}^ extending line 17 from dot C through dot N, to side measure for skirt, 
Round over hip with back arm-size. 

OPEN BACK DRESSES. 

146. Place the center line for children on fold of goods, if no seam 
is desired, one-half inch from fold to allow for seam, and draft as 
usual. •" 

Remark 16. Slender forms are very neatly fitted with the French 
waist. 



LESSOH VII, 



HALF-FITTING SOLID BACK. DIAGRAM NO. 4. 

Is drafted according to directions given in lesson six by making 
the following changes: 

147. Add two numbers to the chest circumference, F scale. Thus 
if the chest circumference is 32, add two and dot 34, F scale. 

148. Add four numbers to the waist circumference, G scale. Thus 
if the waist circumference is 23, add four and dot 27, Gr scale. 

HALF-FITTING CENTER BACK. DIAGRAM NO. 1. 

Is drafted waist and skirt according to directions given in lesson 
three making the following changes: 

149. Add one number to the chest circumference, C scale. Thus 
if the chest circumference is 32, add one and dot 33, C scale. 

HALF-FITTING SIDEBODY. DIAGRAM NO. 2. 

Is drafted according to directions given in lesson four making the 
following changes: 

150. Add one number to the chest circumference, C scale. Thus 
if the chest circumference is 32, add one and dot 33, C scale. 

151. Add two numbers to the chest circumference, F scale. Thus 
if the chest circumference is 32, add two and dot 34, F scale. 



IS 

152. Add four numbers to the waist circumference, Gr scale. Thus 

if the waist circumference is 23. add four and dot 27. G seale. 

HALF-FITTING FRONT. DIAGRAM NO. 3. 

153. Is drafted the same as when close-ritting with one or two 
darts. See lesson 6, direction 109 for one dart. Lesson 5. direction 
47 for two darts. 

Remark 1 7. If under-arm-seam is not required drop two numbers from 
the chest circumference, F seale. and omit dot F. G scale and dot M, 
L seale. 

Under-arm-seam of less* width can be drafted by making dots Q 
and R one-half inch from line 12. This gives the usual allow- 
ance made for wrappers and other half-fitting garments. 

LOOSE BACK. DIAGRAM NO. 4. 

Dot according to directions given in lesson six for close-fitting solid- 
baek. making the following changes: 

154. Add one number to the chest circumference. D scale. Thus 
if the chest circumference is 82. add one and dot 33. D seale. 

155. Add two numbers to the chest circumference. F scale. Thus 
if the chest circumference is 32. add two and dot 34. F scale. 

150. Draw lines 1. 4. 5. 6 according to directions given in lesson 
six. 

157. Draw line 2 from line 1 through and past dot A. making 
the bottom width of waist the same as the width across the back from 
dot B direct to line 1. 

158. Draw line 3 from dot B to end of line 2. when extended ac- 
cording to direction 157. 

LOOSE FRONT. DIAGRAM NO. 3. 

159. Is drafted according to directions given in lesson rive, omit- 
ting the front and back dart, but not the under-arm-seam. 

160. If under-arm-seam is not required then drop two numbers 
from the chest circumference. F scale. Thus if the chest circumfer- 
ence is 38. drop two and dot 31. F scale, and omit dots 0. P. Q, R. 
F and M. also lines 12. 13. 14. 

SKIRT. 

If skirt is desired its bottom width at any length is found by draw- 
ing line 17 from dot C through dot N to side measure for skirt. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED GARMENTS. DIAGRAM NO. 3. 

10>1. Draw line 1 three inches from edge of goods and draft as 
usual. 

OUTSIDE GARMENTS— CLOAKS. ETC. 
AVAIST. 
162, Take all the measurements the same as for an inside gar- 
ment, then add one inch to the chest circumference, two inches to the 
waist circumference and take one-half inch from the waist-length. 



19 

SLEEVE. 

Add one inch to the arm-size and one inch to the hand-size. Then 
the garment can be correctly drafted by any of the foregoing direc- 
tions for close half or loose-fitting garments. 

FOR STOOPED OR ROUND SHOULDERS. 

WIDE-BACK. 

163. On Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1, add two numbers to the 
chest circumference, C, D, E and F scales. Thus if the chest cir- 
cumference is 33, add two and dot 35, C, D, E and F scales. 

NARROW-FRONT. 

164. Drop one number from the chest circumference, A, B, D, E, 
F and Gr scales. 



LESSOR YIII. 



CHILDREN'S CLOTHING. 

Is usually blocked out, tried on and fitted imperfectly to a perfect 
form, often causing spinal affection, liver complaint, indigestion, 
stooped shoulders, narrow chest and many physical ailments and de- 
formities that parents complain of without knowing the cause. 

Later in life those evils are aggravated by tight corsets and the use 
of imperfect S}-stems for drafting their clothing, until the might-have- 
been angel form is converted into an uncomely woman, amounting 
almost to a living, moving fright. 

I have succeeded in making my system as useful in drafting for 
Children of every age as for Ladies of every form. 

It is my wish and advice that both dress-makers and house-keepers 
at once undertake the slight task of drafting Children's Clothing from 
the following simple and ample directions: 

165. The direction for taking the measure in lesson two, apply to 
Children of every age as perfectly as to Ladies and Misses. 

166. The foregoing directions for drafting the solid-back or center- 
back and side-body, close half and loose-fitting, with or without skirt, 
apply for Children as perfectly as for Ladies and Misses. 

167. The directions in lesson five for drafting close-fitting front 
with two darts and under-arm-seam, apply to Children as perfectly as 
to Ladies and Misses. See lesson five, direction 95. 

168. The directions in lesson six for drafting close-fitting front 
with one dart and under-arm-seam, apply to Children as perfectly as 
to Ladies and Misses. See lesson six, direction 146. 



20 

LOOSE-FRONT WITHOUT DARTS, WITH UNDER- ARM- 
SEAM. DIAGRAM NO. 3. 

169. Place the center line for children on fold of goods, if no seam 
is desired, one-half inch from fold to allow for seam. 

170. Make dot A at the chest circumference, A scale. Letter this 
dot A. 

171. Make dot U at waist length, C scale. Letter this dot U. 

172. Make dot B at the chest circumference, B scale. Letter this 
dot B. 

173. Make dot C at the chest circumference, D scale. Letter this 
dot C. 

174. Make dot D at the chest circumference, E scale. Letter this 
dot D. 

175. Make dot E at the chest circumference, F scale. Letter this 
dot E. 

176. Make dot F at the chest circumference, G scale. Letter this 
dot F. 

177. Omit dots G, H, I, J, K and L. 

178. Find the waist circumference, L scale, and the waist length, 
N scale, and trace the lines running from those measurements to the 
hole where the lines meet, and make dot N in this hole. Letter this 
dotN. 

179. With neck to dots A and B, draw line 11 from dot A to B. 
Number this line 11. 

180. With shoulder to dots B and C, draw line 10 from dot B to 
dot C. Number this line 10. 

181. Place the letter 0, which is found on the arm-size, to dot D 
and draw line 9 from dot D to dot E, then draw line 9 from dot D to 
dot C, keeping to dot D. Number this line 9. 

182. With side to dots E and N, draw line 8 from dot E to dot 
N. Number this line 8. 

183. With center draw line 7 from dot U to dot N. Number this 
line 7. 

184. Make dot M on line 7 ', same distance from line 8 as clot F. 
Letter this dot M. 

185. With center rule to dots F and M, draw line 12 from line 9 
through dots F and M, five inches below line 7. Number this line 12. 

186. Make dot on line 9 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot 0. 

187. Make dot P on line 9 one-half inch from line 12. Letter this 
clot P. 

188. Make dot Q on line 7 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot Q. 

189. Make dot R on line 7 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot R. 

190. Draw line 13 from dot to dot Q; from dot Q to one-half 
inch from lower end of line 12. Number this line 13. 



21 

191. Draw line 14 from dot P to dot R; from dot R to lower end 
of line 12. Number this line 14. 

192. Draw line 1 from dot A through dot U to front measure for 
skirt. 

193. With center to dots C and N, draw line 17 to side measure 
for skirt. Number this line 17. 

194. Draw line 18 from lower end of line 17, to lower end of line 
1 in shape to suit the style. Number this line 18. 

195. Trace lines 7, 8, 10, 13, 14 and line 1, if seam is allowed in 
front. 

196. Cut out, allowing only for side and shoulder seams and one- 
half inch for seam at the center, when seam is desired. 

LOOSE-FRONT WITHOUT DARTS OR UNDER-ARM-SEAM. 

Is drafted according to directions given in lesson eight, commenc- 
ing at direction No. 169, by making the following changes: 

197. Drop two numbers from the chest circumference, F scale. 
Thus if the chest circumference is 25, drop two and dot 23, F scale. 

198. Omit dot F, G scale. 

199. Omit dots O, P, Q and R, 

200. Omit lines 12, 13, 14. 

CLOSE-FITTING FRONT WITHOUT DARTS, WITH UNDER- 
ARM-SEAM. 

201. Is drafted the same as loose front without darts, with under- 
arm-seam, by making the following changes. 

20^. Make dot Q one inch from line 12, and dot R one inch from 
line 12. 

CLOSE-FITTING FRONT WITHOUT DARTS, WITHOUT 
UNDER-ARM-SEAM. 
203. Is drafted the same as the loose front without darts, without 
under-arm-seam, by making the following change: 

202. Drop two numbers from the waist circumference, L scale. 
Thus if the waist circumference is 24, drop two and dot 22, L scale. 

Remark 18. From the directions given in this lesson it will be 
seen, by careful inspection, that all wearing apparel for children can 
be easily and correctly drafted in any style that human ingenuity can 
devise. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING EVERY VARIETY 

AND STYLE OF GARMENT. 

205. Procure a descriptive Catalogue of Fashions where the gar- 
ment is illustrated and described as close half or loose-fitting. 

206. Follow my directions for close-fitting when you wish to draft 
any style that is close-fitting. 

207. Follow my directions for half-fitting when you wish to draft 
any style that is half-fitting. 



22 

208. Follow my directions for loose-fitting when you wish to draft 
any style that is loose-fitting. 

209. The length of skirt and shape of drapery can be drafted to 
suit the style. 

Remark 19. A little observation and practice will enable you to 
draft correctly, an}' st} T le of garment, after reading the description 
given in the catalogue. 

DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING. 

210. Fold the darts in the center and commence at the waist-line 
and baste up. 

211. Match the waist lines and baste the center form and side 
seams up, commencing at the bottom of the waist. 

212. The seams of the skirt are basted from the waist-line down. 

213. Commence at the neck to baste the shoulder seams. If the 
back shoulder is a greater length than the front shoulder, the former 
is held a little full when basting, and the front is stretched at the 
hollow of the shoulder. Any excess of length of either part is then 
trimmed off at the arm-size. All lines traced except waist lines are 
to sew in. 



LESSOH IX 



CLOSE-FITTING SLEEVE. 

In the following directions reference is made to Form-Wrought 
Pattern No. 3 to find the scales and rules; to diagrams Nos. 5 and G 
to find the dots and lines. 

TOP SIDE OF SLEEVE. DIAGRAM NO. 5. 

A scale is length of upper arm. B scale is length of lower arm; 
are used only to draw line 1. 

G scale is length of upper arm. C scale is arm-size: are used only 
to make dot C. 

H scale is length of lower arm. E scale is hand-size; are used 
only to make dot D. 

Hand rule is used to draw line 2. 

Outside is used to draw line 3 

Head is used to draw line 4. 

DIRECTIONS. 

214. Draw line 1 from length-^f upper arm A scale to length of 
lower arm B scale, with inside rule. Number this line 1. 

215. Make dot A at length of upper arm A scale. Letter this dot 
A. 



23 

216. Make dot B at length of lower arm B scale. Letter this dot 
B. 

217. Find the length of upper arm G scale, and find the arm-size 
C scale, and trace the straight lines running from those measure- 
ments to the hole where the lines meet and make dot C in this hole. 
Letter this dot C. 

218. Find the length of lower arm H scale, and find the hand-size 
E scale, and trace the straight lines running from those measure- 
ments to the hole where the lines meet and make dot D in this hole. 
Letter this dot D. 

219. With hand rule to dots D and B, draw line 2 from dot D to 
dot B. Number this line 2. 

220. Place outside rule to dots C and D, with length of lower arm 
PI scale to dot D. 

221. Draw line 3 from dot C to dot D. Number this line 3. 

222. Place head rule to dots C and A, outside corner the same 
distance from dot C as inside corner is from dot A. 

223. Draw line 4 from dot C to dot A. Number this line 4. 

UNDERSIDE OF SLEEVE. DIAGRAM NO. 6. 

A scale is length of upper arm; is used only to make dot C. 

B scale is length of lower arm; is used only to make dot F. 

Gr scale is length of upper arm. D scale is arm-size; are used only 
to make dot G. 

H scale is length of lower arm. F scale is hand size; are used only 
to make dot H. 

DIRECTIONS. 

224. Make dot C at length of upper arm A scale. Letter this 
dot C. 

225. Make dot F at length of lower arm B scale on UNDER- 
SIDE-LINE. Letter this dot F. 

226. Find the length of upper arm G- scale, and find the arm-size 
D scale, and trace the straight lines running from those measure- 
ments to the hole where the lines meet and make dot G in this hole. 
Letter this dot G. 

227. Find the length of lower arm H scale, and find the hand- 
measure F scale, and trace the straight lines running from those 
measurements to the hole where the lines meet and make dot H in 
this hole. Letter this dot H. 

228. With inside rule to dots C and F, draw line 1 from dot C to 
dot F. Number this line 1. 

229. With hand rule to dots F and H, draw line 2 from dot F to 
dot H. Number this line 2. 

230. Place outside rule to dots Gr and H, with length of lower arm 
H scale to dot H. 

231. Draw line 3 from dot H to dot G. Number this line 3. 

232. Reverse Form- Wrought Pattern No. 3, keeping print side up, 



24 

and place the arm-size measure I scale to dot C, with head rule to 
dot a. 

233. Draw line 4 from dot G to dot C. Number this line 4. If 
gathers are required at the elbow on top side of sleeve, then 

234. Make dot I on line 3 one inch from dot Gr. 

235. Place the arm-size measure I scale to dot C, with head rule 
to dot I. 

236. Draw line 5 from dot C to dot I. Number this line 5. Cut 
in this line 5. 

237. Measure from dot C on line 3, diagram No. 5, the length of 
upper arm, and dot for gathers. 

238. Trace all the lines on top and underside and cut out, allow- 
ing for seams. 

Remark 20. If greater width of top side and less width of under- 
side is desired at sleeve head, drop as many numbers on D scale as 
you add on C scale. 

Remark 21. If less width of top side and greater width of under- 
side is desired at sleeve head, drop as many numbers on C scale as 
3'ou add on D scale. 

Remark 22. If greater width of top side and less width of under- 
side is desired at the hand, drop as msmy numbers on F scale as you 
add on E scale. 

Remark 23. If less width of top side and greater width of under- 
side is desired at the hand, drop as many numbers on E scale as you 
add on F scale. 



BOOK * II 



LESSOH X. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. FIVE 
WAIST MEASUREMENTS. 

We think the wants of the public are best served by giving two* 
distinct methods of measurement and drafting. All ladies who are not 
skilled in taking correct measurements, should not take five measure- 
ments but draft from three measurements. The fit is exactlv the same 
from three measurements as from five, except on the shoulder. 

Three measurements will fit all ordinary forms perfectly. If the 
.shoulders are very sloping, square, stooped or the form lopsided, five 
measurements are preferable if correctly taken. Ladies who learn 
drafting from live measurements need not be taught drafting from 
three measurements, and those taught from three measurements can 
learn drafting from five measurements from the Book. 

It is very easy to take the three measurements correctly; very 
difficult to take the five measurements correctly. 

Thousands of ladies claim to have taken and applied my five 
measurements for years and years. That is their mistake. The 
difference between doing a thing incorrectly and correctly is so very 
great, that you must be taught over again to succeed. 

To insure perfect success and leave no room for stumbling, I de- 
sire you to use my waist belt marked with my initials (M. M. T.), and 
use no other,- and follow my directions for its use, strictly. Also 
observe the following Special Directions: 

Special direction No. 4. An increase in the back length does not 
give any greater length at the bottom of the waist at the center of 
the back, nor does a decrease in the back length give an}- less length 
at the bottom of the waist at the center of the back. 

Special Direction No. 5. An increase in the front length does not 
give any greater length at the bottom of the waist in front, nor does 
a decrease in the front length give an}' less length at the bottom of 
the waist in front. 

Special Direction No. 6. An increase in the back length elevates 
the neck and shoulder outlines of the back as much as the back length 
is increased. 

Special Direction No. 7. A decrease in the back length lowers the 
neck and shoulder outlines of the back as much as the back length is 
decreased. 



27 

Special Direction No. 8. An increase in the front length elevates 
the neck and shoulder outlines of the front as much as you increase 
the front length. 

Special Direction No. 9. A decrease in the front length lowers the 
neck and shoulder outlines of the front as much as you decrease the 
front length. 

Special Direction No. 10. An increase in the waist length lowers 
the neck and shoulder outlines of back and front as much as you in- 
crease the waist length. 

Special Direction No. 11. A decrease in the waist length elevates 
the neck and shoulder outlines of the back and front as much as you 
decrease the waist length. 

Remark 24. From the foregoing Special Directions you will have 
to confess that the use I make of five waist measurements, is 
altogether different from the use ever before made of five measure- 
ments, by means of a chart, or otherwise. 

Remark 25. Incorrect measurements can be corrected according 
to the foregoing Special Directions. 

239. Chest circumference is a close measurement around the 
chest, close under the arms above the bust. 

240. Waist circumference is a tight measurement around the 
bottom of the waist under the belt. 

241. Dart measure is the difference of the chest circumference 
and waist circumference. Thus if the chest circumference is 32 and 
the waist circumference 23, the difference or dart measure is 9. See 
special directions, Lesson 2. 

Special Direction No. 12. After taking the chest circumference 
and waist circumference, and before taking the waist length, back 
length and front length, place the waist \>elt around the waist at the 
bottom of the waist on each side, straight across the back; one INCH 
LOWER IN FRONT THAN AT THE SIDES FOR ALL FORMS, and tie in a boiV 

knot on the left side. The waist belt must be carefully and accurately 
adjusted. 

242. Waist length is the measurement from under the back of 
the arm over a correct side-seam to the lower edge of the belt. 

243. Back length is the measurement from back of n'eck at the 
height you desire the dress, down upon center of back to lower edge 
of belt, and no farther for any form. 

244. Front length is the measurement from the front of neck at 
the height you desire the dress, down the center to the lower edge of 
the belt, and no farther for any form 

W t hen the Waist Length is not -Proportioned to the Length 
at the Side and Front. 

Special Direction No. 13. Make a draft of the front as usual; 
take the measurement from front of neck at the height you desire the 
-dress, down upon the center to the bottom of the natural waist. (The 



28 

belt is removed before taking this measurement.) Apply this meas- 
ure on line 1 from dot A the length of measure, and make dot U. 

Special Direction No. 14. Take the measure from close up under 
the arm upon a correct under-arm-seam to bottom of natural waist. 
Apply this measure on line 12 from line 9, and make dot M at the 
length of this measure. 

Special Direction No. 15. Place the center on line 1 with base to 
dot U, and draw line 2. Draw lines 3, 4, 5, 6. Draw line 7 from dot 
N through dot M, to junction of lines 2 and 3. 

Remark. The length in front and at under-arm-seam may be in- 
creased or decreased by the foregoing Special Directions. 

245. Shoulder length is the measurement from neck side upon a 
correct shoulder seam to arm size. 

Remark 26. This measurement is of unfrequent use except for 
corpulent ladies. 

See lesson ii for sleeve and skirt measurements. 



LESSOH XI. 



CLOSE-FITTING BACK. DIAGRAM N0.1 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 
1 to find the scales and rules; to diagram No. 1 to find the dots and 
lines. 

Center scale is back length; is used only to give the length of line 
1. 

B scale is waist length; is used only to make dot A, diagram No. 1. 

F, 0, R and M, on Form-Wrought Pattern No. 1, describes the 
form; are used only to make the dots not lettered on line 9. 

C scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot B. 

D scale is chest circumference; is used onty to make dot C. 

Center is used to draw line 1. 

Base is used to draw line 2. 

Arm is used to draw line 3. 

Neck is used to draw line 4. 

Shoulder is used to draw line 5. 

DIRECTIONS. 

246. Place center of Form-Wrought Pattern No. 1 one inch from 
the edge of goods and draw 

line 1 from back length, center scale, to base. Number this line 1. 

247. Draw line 2 from line 1 to form. Number this line 2. 

248. Place the waist length, A scale, to lower end of line 1, keep- 
ing center on line 1. 

When waist length is 10, base is placed one-half inch above lower end 
of line 1 , etc. 



29 

249. Make dot A at the waist length B scale. Letter this dot A. 

250. Dot the letters F, 0, R and M, to make line 9. 

251. Make dot B at the chest circumference C scale. Letter this 
dot B. 

252. Make dot C at the chest circumference D scale. Letter this 
dot C. 

253. With arm to dots B and C, draw line 3 from dot B to dot C. 
Number this line 3. 

254. Place center on line 1 with neck to top of line 1. 

255. Draw line 4 from top of line 1 the width of neck. Number 
this line 4. 

256. Make dot D at end of line 4. Letter this dot D. 

257. With shoulder to dots D and C, draw line 5 from dot D to 
dot C. Number this line 5. 

258. With dart rule join the dots made at F, 0, R and M with a 
line, then join this line with A and B dots. 

Dei The junction of lines is the point where the lines meet. 

259. Place the center to dot A and junction of lines 1 and 4. 

260. Draw line 6 from top of line 1 through dot A below line 2, 
the length you desire the skirt. Number this line 6. 

261. Make dot E on line 6, six inches from dot A. 

262. With center to E and junction of lines 1 and 2, draw line 7 
from dot E below. line 2 to back measure for skirt. Number this 
line 7. 

263. Draw line 8 from lower end of line 7 to lower end of line 6. 
Number this line 8. 

264. Trace lines 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. 

265. Cut out, allowing only for center form and shoulder seams. 

OPEN BACK DRESSES. 

266. Turn down one and a half inches for hem, and place the 
center of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1 one-half inch from the edge 
of fold to allow for lap, then draft as before. 



LESSOH XII 



CLOSE-FITTING SIDEBODY. DIAGRAM NO. 2. 

In the following reference is made to Form- Wrought Pattern No. 
1 to find the scales and rules; to diagram No. 2 to find the dots and 
lines. 

B scale is waist length; is used only to make dot A. 

F, 0, R and M, on Form- Wrought Pattern No. 1, describe the 
form; are used only to make the dots not lettered on line 7. 

C scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot B. 

F scale is chest circumference; is used only to make dot C. 



30 

G scale is waist circumference; H scale is waist length; are used 
only to make dot D. 

Base is used to draw line 1. 
Dart rule is used to draw line 2. 
Arm is used to draw line 3. 

DIRECTIONS. 

267. Make dot A at the waist length B scale. Letter this dot A. 

268. Dot the letters F, 0, R and M to make line 7. 

269. Make dot B at the chest circumference C scale. Letter this 
dot B. 

270.. Make dot C at the chest circumference F scale. Letter this 
dot C. 

271. Find the waist circumference G scale, and find the waist 
length H scale, and trace the straight lines running from those meas- 
urements to the hole where the lines meet and make dot D in this 
hole. Letter this dot D. 

272. With base to dots D and A, draw line 1 from dot D to dot 

A. Number this line 1. 

273. With dart rule to dots C and D, draw line 2 from dot C to 
dot D. Number this line 2. 

274. With arm to dots C and B, draw line 3 from dot C to dot 

B. Number this line 3. 

275. With dart rule join dots made at F, 0, B and M with a line, 
then join this line with dots A and B. Number this line 7. 

276. With centre to dots A and B, draw line 4 from dot B through 
dot A, the same length below line 1 as the length of line 6, diagram 
No. 1. Number this line 4. 

277. Make dot E on line 4 five inches from dot A. Letter this 
dotE. 

278. With center to dots E and D, draw line 5 from dot E through 
dot D below line 1 to side measure to skirt, Number this line 5. 
Bound line 5 with dart rule. 

279. Draw line 6 from lower end of line 4 to lower end of line 5. 
Number this line 6. 

280. Trace lines 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7. 

281. Cut out, allowing only for side and form seams on waist and 
skirt. 



LESS0H XIII. 



CLOSE-FITTING FRONT. DIAGRAM NO. 3. 

In the following directions reference is made to Form- Wrought 
Pattern No. 2 to find the scales and rules; to diagram No. 3 to find 
the dots and lines. 



31 

Center scale is front length, is used only to draw line 1. 

A scale is chest circumference, is used only to place to dot A be- 
fore making dot B. 

B scale is chest circumference, is used only to make dot B. 

C scale is waist length, is used only to place to lower end of line 
1, before making dot C. 

D scale is chest circumference, is used only to make dot C. 

F scale is chest circumference, is used only to make dot E. 

E scale is chest circumference, is used only to make dot D. 

G scale is chest circumference, is used only to make dot F. 

H scale is difference of chest and waist size, is used only to make 
dot G. 

I scale is difference of chest and waist size, is used only to make 
dot H. t 

One star (*) is used only to make dot I. 

J scale is difference of chest and waist size, is used only to make 
dot J. 

Two stars (**) are used only to move to dot J before making dot 
K. 

Three stars (***) are used onh' to make dot K. 

K scale is difference of chest and waist size, is used only to make 
dot L. 

Four stars (****) are used only to move to dot L before making 
dot M. 

L scale is waist circumference, is used only to make dot M. 

M scale is waist circumference: N scale is waist length; are used 
onh' to make dot N. 

Shoulder scale is used only to measure the length of line 10, dia- 
gram No. 3. 

DIRECTIONS. 

282. Place the center of Form- Wrought Pattern No. 2 one and a, 
half inches from the edge of the goods to allow for hem. 

283. Draw line 1 from front length center scale to base. Number 
this line 1. 

284. Before moving the chart, draw line 2 from lower end of line 
1 to the letter K. Number this line 2. 

285. Make dot A on line 1 at the front length. Letter this dot A. 

286. Place the chest circumference A scale to dot A, center on 
line 1. 

287. Make dot B at the chest circumference, B scale. Letter this 
dot B. 

288. Place the waist length, C scale to the lower end of line 1, 
with center on line 1 . The end of line from waist length is placed to 
lower end of line 1. When waist length is 9^-, base is placed one-half 
inch above lower end of line 1, etc. 

289. Make dot C at the chest circumference, D scale. Letter this 
dot C. 



32 

290. Make dot D at the chest circumference, E scale. Letter this 
dotD. 

291. Make dot E at the chest circumference, F scale. Letter this 
dotE. 

292. Make dot F at the chest circumference, G scale. Letter this 
dotF. 

Remark 27. When the difference of chest and waist circumference 
is 9, dot at the top and on each side of each dart, without moving 
the chart. 

293. Make dot Gat the difference or dart measure, H scale. Letter 
this dot G-. 

294. Make dot H at the difference or dart measure, I scale. Let- 
ter this dot H. 

295. Make dot I at one star (*) close to edge of chart. Letter 
this dot I. 

296. Make dot J at the difference or dart measure, J scale. Let- 
this dot J. 

297. Move the chart, placing two stars (**) to dot J, before mak- 
ing dot K. 

298. Make dot K at three stars (***) close to edge of chart. Let- 
ter this dot K. 

299. Make dot L at the difference or dart measure, K scale. Let- 
ter this dot L. 

300. Move the chart, placing four stars (****) to dot L, with base 
close to dots I, J, K and L, before making dot M. 

301. Make dot M at the waist circumference, L scale. Letter 
this dot M. 

302. Find the waist circumference, M scale, and find the waist 
length, N scale, and trace the straight lines running from those meas- 
urements to the hole where the lines meet, and make dot N in this 
hole. Letter this dot N. 

303. With dart rule to dots G and L, draw line 3 from dot G- to 
line 2. Number this line 3. 

304. With dart rule to dots H and J, draw line 4 from dot H to 
line 2. Number this line 4. 

305. With dart rule print side down to dots H and I, draw line 5 
from dot H to line 2. Number this line 5. 

306. With dart rule print side down to dots G and K, draw line 6 
from dot G to line 2. Number this line 6. 

307. With center rule draw line 7 from dot N to junction of lines 
2 and 3. Number this line 7. 

308. With side rule to dots E and N, draw line 8 from clot E to 
dot N. Number this line 8. 

309. With arm rule to dots C, D and E, draw line 9 from dot C 
through dot D to dot E. Number this line 9. 

Remark 28. If the arm rule cannot be made to touch all three 
dots C, D and E at the same time, then place to dot D, and draw 



33 

line 9 from clot D to dot E, then draw line 9 from dot D to dot C 
keeping to dot D. 

310. With shoulder rule to dots B and C, draw line 10 from dot 
B to dot C. Number this line 10. 

311. With neck rule to dots A and B, draw line 11 from dot A to 
dot B. Number this line 11. 

312. With center rule of back to dots F and M, draw line 12 from 
line 9 through dots F and M to length of skirt for basque; five inches 
below line 7 for Polonaise, etc. Number this line 12. 

313. Make dot on line 9 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot 0. 

314. Make dot P on line 9 one-half inch from line 12. Letter 
this dot P. 

315. Make dot Q on line 7 one inch from line 12. Letter this 
dot Q. 

316. Make dot R on line 7 one inch from line 12. Letter this 
dot R. 

j 317. Draw line 13 from dot on line 9 to dot Q on line 7, then 
draw line 13 from dot Q to one-half inch from lower end of line 12. 
Number this line 13. 

318. Draw line 14 from dot P to dot R, then draw line 14 from 
dot R to lower end of line 12, curving line 14 below line 7 towards 
line 12 with dart rule. Number this line 14. 

319. Make dot S on line 2, same distance from line 4 as from 
line 5. Letter this dot S. 

320. Make clot T on line 2, same distance from line 3 as from 
line 6. 

321. With center rule to dots H and S, draw line 15 from dot H 
below dot S, the number of inches used for marking the darts. Num- 
ber this line 15. 

322. With center rule to dots G and T, draw line 16 from dot G 
below dot T, the length of line 15. Number this line 16. 

323. Extend line 5 below junction of lines 2 and 5, to lower end 
of line 15. 

324. Extend line 4 from junction of lines 2 and 4, to lower end 
of line 15. 

325. Extend line 6 from junction of lines 2 and 6, to lower end 
of line 16. 

326. Extend line 3 from junction of lines 2 and 3, to lower end 
of line 16. 

327. Extend line 1 from line 2, to front measure for skirt. 

328. With center rule of back to dots C and N, draw line 17 be- 
low dot N, to side measure for skirt. Number this line 17. 

Remark 29. Produce the curve over hip with arm-size of back. 

329. Draw line 18 from lower end of line 17 to lower end of line 
1, in shape to suit the stvle. Number this line 18. 

330. Trace lines 1, 2, 7, 8, 10, 13, 14, 3, 6, 4, 5, and cut out, 
allowing only for hem, side and shoulder seams. 



Remark 30. The bottom width of skirt at any length for Basque, 
Polonaise, Princess Dress, Wrapper, or other garment, is found by 
extending line 1 7 from dot C through dot N, to side measure for skirt, 

OPEN BACK DRESSES. 

331. Place center line for children on fold of goods, if no seam is 
desired, one-half inch from fold to allow for seam, and draft same as 
before. 

DEFORMED OR LOPSIDED LADIES. 

\ 

332. Take the waist length on both sides. 

333. Draft for each side separately by its own waist length. 
Obs. This is the only Dress System that will draft correctly for 

lopsided ladies. 

HOW TO CHANGE THE POSITION OF THE BACK-FORMS. 

334. Draft the close-fitting solid back. See Lesson 6. 

335. Dot on line 4 where you desire the form at the arm. 

336. Dot on line 2 where } t ou desire the form at the waist line. 

337. Wind the end of tape measure around the end of the pencil, 
and sweep the pencil from dot on line 4 to dot on line 2, witira 
length of tape equal to the sum of the waist length and back width. 

Remark 31. A greater length of tape will give less curvature. 
When this change is made it will be necessary to first draft a pattern, 
and cut your cloth from this pattern. 



CLOSE-FITTING-FRONT WITH BIAS DART. 

I do not Recommend its LTse. 







Is drafted according to directions given in Lesson 13, commencing 
at direction 282, by making the following changes. It may also be 
drafted by directions given in Lesson 5, by making the following 
changes: 

338. Add two numbers to the dart measure, H scale. 

339. Add four numbers to dart measure, K scale. 

340. Add four numbers to the waist circumference, V L scale. 

341. Add four numbers to the waist circumference, M scale. 

342. Make dot Q on line 7 an inch and a half from line 12. 

343. Make dot R on line 7 an inch and a half fronrline 12. 

344. Lines 3 and 6 on the skirt are drawn nearly parallel with 
line 16, to avoid Greater width to skirt. 



ALL IMITATIONS 



OF THIS- 



SYSTEM IN PATTERN FORM 



ARE- 



ABSOLUTELY WORTHLESS, 



-iL-GKElSTTa ^^^n^TTIEIE). 



For The Only Genuine Tailor System In Pattern Form, This 
Sj'stem consists of Form-Wrought Patterns Nos. 1, 2, 3, and Instruc- 
tion Book. 

The price for one complete copy of the Improved Tailor System, 
including Tape Measure, Belt and Tracing Wheel, with Personal 
Instruction, is ten dollars; without Personal Instruction, five dollars, 
when ordered from address. 

EXTRAORDINARY OFFER TO LOCAL AGENTS. 

My wholesale prices are fifty per cent less than any other author 
can afford the same amount of work and merit. 

We are constantly receiving large numbers of letters from ladies 
who prefer to purchase this System of a local agent and receive 
p erson a 1 in struction . 

Now, nry dear patrons, if }'ou would keep a few copies of this 
System constantly on hand, you would have a demand for them 
without making any effort to sell. Then I would refer those who 
wish to purchase of a local agent to you. Ten dollars invested in 
this System will give 3 T ou a net profit of fifty dollars. 

Business Ladies can purchaseihis System very cheap at wholesale to 
supply their apprentices. We have an extensive trade for this pur- 
pose. Why: 



( 



36 

First — It is less trouble to teach this System than any other system. 
The Instruction Book gives two distinct methods of drafting. The 
former is designed especially for apprentices and is within the com- 
prehension of all who can count their fingers. 

Second — Systems that retail for twenty dollars, draft less perfectly 
in the hands of an apprentice than this S3' stem. 

Third — Our wholesale prices are nearly as low as the wholesale 
prices of charts of the least merit. 

Fourth — Our wholesale prices are the same from year to year. 

Fifth — We are always prepared to fill orders promptly. 

Sixth — This S}*stem has long been in the market; is a public 
necessity; can alwa} T s be had from generation to generation, with all 
the latest improvements. Please send for Price List. Direct to 

MILO M. TURNER, LL. B., 

Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Or to MILO M. TURNER, LL. B., 

Niles, Berrien Co., Mich. 



Milo M Turner's Improved Tailor System is a great marvel. Its 
siniplictty, speed and perfectness is so transparent and self evident 
that agents have no difficult}' in effecting sales. Every lady bu3 r s 
this System who has money and can. Its use is learned without risk 
or difficulty from the printed directions or can be thoroughly taught 
in less than one hour. Other S3'stems require from three to ten days 
to teach their use and unless paid for before learned cannot be sold. 
We draft directly upon the cloth for Ladies, Misses or Children, in 
ten or fifteen minutes, any style of garment. Other S3'stems require 
from one to three hours to draft the same garment less accurately. 
This S3'stem will supply a long felt need among dressmakers and 
housekeepers. 

Ladies wishing Tape Measure, Belt, or Double Tracing Wheel, will 
please inclose Postal Note for ten cents for Tape Measure or Belt, 
or twent3 T -five cents for Double Tracing Wheel, and direct to 

MILO M. TURNER, LL. B., 
Niles, Berrien Co., Mich. 



sn ihntzdzez^jm^- 



Subject — Ladies' and Misses' Clothing. 

Page. 

Preface, 3 

Description of Form-Wrought Patterns, 5 

Request to Agents, 6 

Request to Scholars, 6 

Directions for taking three Waist Measurements, 6 

Sleeve Measurements, 7 

Skirt Measurements, 7 

Close-Fitting Back, •. . 8 

Close-Fitting Sidebody, 9 

Open-Rack Dresses, Back, 9 

Close-Fitting Front, . 10 

Open-Back Dresses, Front, 13 

French Waist or Close-Fitting Solid Back, 13 

French Waist, Close-Fitting Front, one dart, 15 

Half-Fitting Solid Back, 17 

Half-Fitting Center Back, 17 

Half-Fitting Sidebody, ..." 17 

Half-Fitting Front, 18 

Loose Back, 1 . ..18 

Loose Front, 18 

Double Breasted Garments, 18 

Outside Garments, Cloaks, &c, 18 

Directions for Stooped or Round Shoulders, 19 

Directions for taking five Waist Measurements, 26 

Close-Fitting Back, 28 

Open Back Dresses, Back, 29 

Close-Fitting Sidebody, 29 

Close-Fitting Front, 30 

Open Back Dresses, Front, 34 

Deformed or Lop-sided Ladies, 34 

Bias Dart, : • • • . , 34 



38 

Subject — Children's Clothing. 

Direction.' 

Directions for taking the measure 

Directions for drafting Solid Back or Center Back, and Sidebody, 

Close, Half and Loose-Fitting, with or without Skirt 166 

Directions for drafting Close-Fitting Front with two Darts and 

Under-arm-seam, .* - 

Directions for' drafting Close-Fitting Front with one Dart and 

Under-arm-seam, •••> 

Loose-Front without Darts, with Under-arm-seam, 169 

Loose-Front without Darts or Under-arm-seam - 197 

Close-Fitting Front without Darts, with Under-arm-seam, ....... .201 

Close-Fitting Front without Darts, without Under-arm-seam, .... 203 

General Directions for drafting every variety and style of Gar- 

205 

ment ' 910 

Directions for Basting, 

214 
Close-Fitting Sleeve, " 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING IMPROVED SLEEVE. TOP 
SIDE WIDE, UNDER SIDE NARROW. 

Measurements, Arm size, Elbow size. Wrist size. Upper arm. 
Lower arm. (See Arm measurements, page 14.) 

Elbow size is a tight measurement around the arm at the elbow 
over the greatest projection when bent. 

1. Y side one-half inch from top edge, Z end two inches from 
left edge. 

2. Draw line 1 from Z end to Y end, Y side. 

3. Make dot A on line 1 at arm size, increased by three. Make 
dot B on line 1 at half the arm size. 

4. Z end to dot B, Z side on line 1. 

5. Make dot C on line 1 at upper arm. 

6. Z end to dot C, Z side on line 1. 

7. Draw line 1 from dot C past lower arm. 

8. Make dot D on line 1 at length of lower arm. 

9. Z end on line 1, Z side to dot D. 

10. Draw line 2 from dot D indefinite. 

11. Make dot E on line 2 at ^ or ^ length of upper arm. 

12. 'Draw line 3 from dot C to dot E and past. 

13. Z end on line 3, Z side to dot E. 

14. Draw line 4 from dot E indefinite. 

15. Make dot F on line 4 one and a half inches from dot E. 

16. Make dot G on line 4 at ^ wrist size, increased by f. 

17. Z end on line 1, Z side to dot €. 

18. Draw line 5 from dot C indefinite. 

19. Make dot H on line 5, two inches from dot C. 

20. Make dot I on line 5, at half elbow size, increased hy 1. 

21. Z end on line 1, Z side to dot A. 

22. Draw line 6 from dot A indefinite. 

23. Make dot J on line 6, three inches from dot A. 

24. Make dot K on line 6 at half the arm size, increased by 1\. 

25. Z end on line 1, Y side on line 6. 

26. Make dot L on line 6, at three times half of arm size, Y side. 

27. Z end on line 6, Y side to dot L. 

28. Make dot M at three times half of arm size. Y side. 

29. Draw line 7 from dot F to dot H. 

30. Draw line 8 from dot H through dot J; length of upper arm 
for gathers, one inch more for plain. 

31. Sweep curve 9 from B to M, by tape length from M to K. 

32. Sweep curve 10 from M to K, by tape length from A to K. 

33. Sweep curve 11 from end of line 8 to dot K, by tape length 
from K to J. 

34. Sweep curve 12 from K to I, by tape twice length of upper 
arm; changing pivot sweep from I to line 4. one-half inch from dot 
G; changing pivot sweep from I to dot G. 

Greater or less difference in the width of the two sides is produced 
by adding to half of each measure on lines 4, 5, 6 half the difference 
required when locating dots G, I and K. 

When tracin,g curve lines 1 and 8 down from arm size up toward 
the elbow. 

Price for this system is twenty dollars. 



LIBRARY OF 



CONGRESS 



M 



